How to Build a DIY Address Sign Without Fancy Tools!

worstontheblockDecember 30, 2020

Want to build an address sign but don’t have a workshop full of tools? You’re in luck! This post will show you how to create this simple, unique and inexpensive DIY address sign on a budget using basic tools.

This address sign is incredibly versatile and EASY! It was one of my first wood working projects that I completed with minimal tools and before I owned a saw.

Yes, it’s possible, and you can do it too!

The great thing about this (and every) DIY project is that you can customize it to fit your space and needs.

Need a way to communicate to delivery drivers? To mark your home? Maybe to show a personal touch? Or how about just to welcome visitors?

Our situation is unique, but likely so is yours. This project is 100% customizable.

Get creative and change up the size, colors, stain, lettering, numbers, etc. Do what you love and what will fit with your home!

The story…

I love projects that serve dual purpose. We live on a corner of two intersecting streets, and on the street address side of the house is a rarely-used basement door.

Packages were often delivered here instead of the front door on the cross street, which meant that they were often left out in the elements much longer than they should have been.

Out of sight, out of mind. Luckily, nothing was ever stolen.

We also have bright green graffiti on our brick foundation wall of a treble clef from past tenants. We tried to scrub it off, but to no avail.

I love music just as much as the next person, but not on our brick.

So our solution to both problems was to create a large sign that covers the graffiti and also gives direction to delivery drivers. And of course, I wanted it to be pretty.

Who can resist an extra spot for flowers? Not me!

Here’s how we did it.

1. Make a Plan

The very first thing you should do is measure the space you want to the sign to hang in. This will inform the size wood you’ll need.

You’ll need a 1″ thick board for the base of the sign, based on your measurements.

For example, if you have a 1’x2′ space, you can purchase a 1×6 and cut it to 2′ twice, or simply purchase a 12″ board and cut it to 2′ (but you will have leftover wood).

You’ll then need a 1×2 to support the back of your sign IF you are using multiple boards. This will be how you attach the two (or more) boards together.

In the above example, if you just use a 12″ board, you won’t need any back support, but if you’re connecting two 6″ boards, you will.

Check out our mistakes to avoid when purchasing wood here.

You then need wood for the planter box. This should be a smaller width than the boards for the sign if you need room for lettering.

For our purposes, we needed a large sign, 36″ wide by 28″ tall, so we purchased:

One 1×10, cut into 3ft sections for the sign
One 1×6 for the planter box, cut to 26″ for the front and bottom and two 4-3/4″ sides
One 1×2 for the back support, cut to 28″

The below instructions are for our large sign, but you can easily follow these steps to create a sign of any size, just alter your wood size as needed.

What you’ll need:

Measuring tape
wood boards
way to cut the wood (see notes below)
Exterior paint or stain
Paint brush
Small crafts paint brush
Screws
Mounting hardware
Drill and driver
Address numbers (optional)
level
mounting screws/anchors

Notes:

For paint, we used Night Train by Sherwin Williams, which is the same color as our trim. Make sure it’s exterior paint to better withstand the elements. You can also use stain.

Also required is a way to cut the wood. As I mentioned, this project was completed before we owned a saw, simply by asking the place we purchased the wood to cut it for us.

Most hardware stores will be able to do this for you for free or for a very small fee. You can complete many projects this way without making the investment in a saw of your own.

OR ask a friend or neighbor. And thank them with cookies.

2. Build the Sign

Cut your wood.

Cut your boards to the desired size of your sign. I had my 1″x10″ board cut into three 3ft. pieces in the store.

Tip: when purchasing wood, look for pieces that are not warped and have minimal knots (unlike these 😂).

If you’re using multiple boards for your sign, you’ll also need your 1×2 cut to the height of your boards when stacked together, at least 2 pieces (one for each side).

Cut the wood for your planter box by cutting two pieces to the desired length (mine was 28″). Then cut the side pieces to the width of the boards minus the depth (I used a 1×6, so I cut two lengths of 1×6 to 4-3/4).

Remember that wood depth is not accurate! Always measure to ensure your wood aligns properly.

Choose the best side of the wood and lay that side face DOWN. This will be the front of the sign.

Attach the boards.

Use wood glue to stick the sides of the adjacent boards together, then align the boards so the edges are flush. Use a square if you have one or just eyeball it.

Then place your cut 1×2 along the vertical edges of the boards boards. Ensure the boards are still flush with each other, drill pilot holes and screw the 1×2’s into place.

If you have a pocket hole jig, you could certainly use them here instead.

I am not fancy like that.

Since my sign is so large I also attached two shorter 1×2’s in the center for added support, and also added 1×2’s horizontally at the top and bottom of the sign.

The top piece provides a place to hang the sign and the bottom ensures the sign hangs away from the house at equal points (though these are not totally necessary, especially if your sign is smaller).

Sand your sign.

Sand the front of the sign as needed to minimize any splinters or rough edges. If you have a sander, great! But if not (I don’t either), just use pieces of sand paper.

Start with a courser grit to knock of any big splinters, and then finish off with a fine grit to get a smooth surface for painting.

Paint or Stain your sign.

If you choose to have lettering on your sign, do this before attaching the window box as you’ll want to be able to move your arms freely and not have to work around the bulky window box.

If not, you can assemble and attach the window box now and then paint everything together.

Prime and paint (or stain) the front and the edges of the sign. Dont forget the edges as you will be able to see them from the side!

Follow the directions on your paint or stain can and allow it to dry completely.

Lettering.

If you, like myself, do not have a fancy projector to transfer images, there’s still a way to get nice lettering without having to be an artist (I certainly am not).

First, print out what you want the sign to say in your desired font. Other sayings for your sign might be “Welcome”, or your last name or initial.

I wanted the font slightly bigger than it printed out so I hand traced the letters a bit larger right on the paper as shown.

Once you have the font the way you like it, turn the paper over and using a pencil, color in the back side of the lettering. This will act as the medium for transfering the writing to the sign.

Next, lay the lettering on the painted sign as you want it to appear (pencil-side down) and tape it to secure it to the sign. Painters tape is best if you have it.

Then you’re simly going to trace the letters so that the pencil transfers to the sign. It will probably come out pretty light (mine did), but it will be visible enough to paint.

Remove the paper from your sign and then paint your transferred image. I used a tiny paint brush from the dollar store from the arts and crafts section and black paint that I had on hand.

They also make paint markers that would make this process a bit easier.

If you make a mistake, you can go back later and paint over it with the sign color and a small paint brush once it’s dry.

Attach your address numbers.

Brad’s parents picked us up some address numbers and I thought this would be the perfect use for them.

These just attach with screws that are included in the packaging. Always drill a pilot hole!

3. Build the Planter Box

Now with your cut boards for your planter, you’re going to make a simple box.

Wood glue the box together by laying one of the longer boards down on a flat surface and glue each side piece at either end of the board. Then glue your second longer board to the front of the box.

Ensure it is all flush and then using your driver and drill, screw the box into place.

Decide which side of the box you want to be the bottom of the planter and drill several holes with your driver for drainage. Do not skip this step as both the box and your plant’s roots will rot much faster if water cannot drain.

Sand the planter box with a course grit sand paper to remove any big splinters and then finish with a fine grit paper. You can also fill in the screw holes with wood filler and sand it down when dry to hide the screws if desired.

Attach the planter box.

Use wood glue to initially attach the box in the place you like it. Use your tape measure to make sure it’s even and centered.

Keep plant choices in mind for placement as you may want more room between the lettering and the top of the box for your plants to stand tall.

From the back of the sign, drill pilot holes and screw the window box in place. You may have to measure from the sides to get the proper placement for the screws.

Finish painting.

Prime and paint the now-attached window box and allow to dry completely.

4. Hang Your Sign

We used concrete anchors that went right into the brick mortar to hang the sign. Depending on where you’re placing your sign, the mounting may differ.

Use your level to make sure it’s even.

5. Plant it!

Now it’s time for the fun part. Fill your planter will soil and slow-release fertilizer and then add something pretty!

Our window box gets absolutely no direct light as it sits on the North side of the house. Great options for this low-light situation include impatients, begonias, violets and ivy.

For full-sun spots, petunia’s, geraniums, sweet potato vine, lantana or sedum should do great.

Don’t forget to fertilize your annuals for an amazing display!

I also LOVE to fill it up with greens and berries at Christmas time. They usually look great all the way through spring when it’s time to put in flowers again.